Only around 4% of the Japanese population have a BMI over 30. With one of the lowest obesity rates in the world, it can be a bit daunting to travel to Japan as a plus size tourist. But what is it really like?
Being Plus-size in Japan
Firstly, let me say this: Most Japanese people are incredibly polite and you are very unlikely to feel unwelcome in Japan as a Plus-Size tourist.
Although there is a big cultural emphasis on being slim, this has been slowly changing over the last few years, especially amongst the younger generation. There are growing movements towards body positivity, with many people working to promote acceptance of all body types.
In my own experience, people generally go out of their way to accommodate you in whatever way they can, and if for some reason you they can’t help you, you’ll never be made to feel embarrassed or ashamed.
Remember, large people aren’t alien to the Japanese; sumo wrestlers can weigh between 300-400lbs, and are hugely respected as athletes.
So what is Japan actually like for a plus-size tourist? Let’s start with some positives:
Public Transport is (Mostly) Convenient
Japanese trains are known to be efficiant, punctual, and clean. There’s also no problem at all using them as a larger person. The seats are pretty spacious, and the armrests are adjustable, meaning if you need a little more space you can put them up, although do consider your neighbour if you do.
You’ll also experience no problems with subway lines, where the seats run along the sides and consist of lengthy benches.
Buses, however may be a bit of a tight squeeze. The larger seats at the front are intended for use by disabled, pregnant, and elderly people, so you might find yourself having to stand for the duration as the other seats are quite small. Take this into consideration if you’re heading out on a long bus journey.
A lot of Activities aren’t Discriminative against Plus-Size People
There are tons of things you can do and see in Japan without having to worry about your size.
Parks, temples, shrines, shopping streets, markets, museums, arcades, beaches, festivals and more can all be visited and appreciated regardless of your body type.
You’ll be absolutely fine going to watch a baseball, football, or other sport game – the seats are spacious, and if you’re truly worried, buy a seat on the end of a row so you can make use of the aisle if you need to. I had a great time watching the Baystars kick ass in the Yokohoma baseball stadium!
One small note – if you plan to stay in somewhere like a Ryokan, or just want to visit a public bath, be aware that the yukata you’re provided with to cover up will likely not fit you. I highly recommend you bring your own – I personally wore a tank top and joggers under mine when I visited a private ryokan, as it didn’t close, but at a public one, I’m not sure you’ll get away with that.
That said, there are some things you need to take into account if you’re a plus-size visitor to Japan.
1. A Lot of Hotels aren’t designed for Plus-Size Tourists
Hotel rooms tend to be on the smaller side, with even ‘double’ beds actually being about a single and a half sized. There may not be much actual space in the room, even for luggage, and the bathrooms can be tiny.
However, I’ve never actually had a problem in any hotel or hostel I’ve ever stayed in when travelling around Japan. Sure, it can be a tight squeeze, but not enough to stop you using the bathroom or sleeping comfortably.
The best thing to do is thoroughly research the hotel you’re planning on staying in. Try to find photos of the rooms, and judge whether you’ll be comfortable with the space provided.
One chain I recommend for both price and comfort are the Sotetsu Fresa Inns. I’ve stayed in a few different ones in Tokyo, Hiroshima, and Sapporo, and they’re generally excellent for location, cleanliness, amenities, and space for a plus-size traveler.
2. You’re unlikely to be able to Shop for Clothes
While Japan is definitely beginning to offer better options in clothing for plus-size people, the majority of shops still don’t provide larger sizing. If you’re heading to places like Harajuku to shop for cute clothes, you’ll probably be disappointed.
However, there are some options for plus-size clothing in Japan which are:
For some help finding the right size, these are the women’s clothing sizes in Japan in comparison to the UK, US, and Europe:
| Japan | 7 (S) | 9 (M) | 11 (L) | 13 (LL/XL) | 15 (LLL/XXL) | 17 (4L/3X) | 19 (5L/4X) | 21 (6L/4X) | 23 (7L/5X) |
| UK | 8 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 | 22 | 24 |
| Europe | 36 | 38 | 40 | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 | 50 | 52 |
| US | 4 | 6 | 8 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 |
3. You won’t be able to fit on some Rides
Ah, the age-old story of trying to fit in a ride, only to have to slink back out past the waiting line with your head held low. Luckily, in Japan, they’ve thought of the perfect solution; before you even start queuing for a ride, you’ll find a seat set aside for you to try out beforehand.
Unfortunately, they’re like pretty much every other rollercoaster seat. If you’re a larger person, you will likely struggle to fit. But at least you can check first without having to do the walk of shame!
Also, in some cases, the staff will be able to compensate for you. I went on a ride once in Joypolis where they let me on without doing the (too small) harness up, and simply switched off the mechanics which would have jolted me out of the chair. I still got to shoot zombies, and they didn’t have to clean me up off the floor – win win!
4. You might find some Restaurants uncomfortably small
To be fair, the majority of restaurants you’ll have no problem in. There’s only two kinds where you might struggle:
Hole-in-the-wall
Places like Golden Gai and Omoide Yokocho in Tokyo, Pontocho in Kyoto, and Hozenji Yokocho in Osaka, or other backstreets packed with eateries might be a bit difficult to maneuver for a larger person. The restaurants tend to only have a handful of small stools or seats set in a very narrow passageway, and are pretty crowded. Personally, I’d plan a walk-through to see if there are any convenient spots to sit at, with a back-up place to head for if you have no luck.
Floor seating
Some places offer floor seating only, which, while a lovely traditional Japanese experience, can be quite hard for a larger person to dine in comfortably. I’ve sat at a couple, and have had to sit at awkward angles to strech my legs out in, unable to sit cross-legged or on folded knees. Sometaro in Asakusa is an example of this kind of restaurant, or Genghis Khan in Sapporo (if you want to eat at the grill).
5. Prepare for a lot of Walking
The public transport network is very well connected, meaning you rarely have to walk more than 10-15 minutes away from a stop to find the place you’re looking for. However, Kyoto, Osaka, and Tokyo in particular are vast, sprawling cities, and as a tourist, you’ll be running all over the place trying to see as much as you can!
To save your feet, try planning to spend each day in a specific ward or area. For example, you could try splitting Tokyo up into Ginza, Shibuya, Shinjuku, Odaiba, Asakusa, Akihabara, Ikebukuro and more day by day.
And invest in a comfortable pair of walking shoes! I swear by my Skechers, but New Balance are also a good option. A chafing stick might also be a helpful accessory if you’re planning on walking a lot.
Lastly, try to avoid visiting in the Summer – while each season has its perks, and in particular Summer is the time for a lot of festivals, the heat is a nightmare. Wearing Summer clothing can be daunting if you’re self-conscious about your body, and you will sweat. A lot. Autumn, Winter and Spring are all better times for traveling to Japan in general.
I’ve travelled to Japan four times as a plus-size tourist, and have never once had a bad experience. I’ve only ever come away with incredible memories of my time there, and would always encourage people feeling nervous about their size to go!
Have any specific questions about being a tourist in Japan? Drop me a comment below and I’ll do my best to answer them!
Read more about travelling to Japan!
Shinkansen. Should i buy first class or regular sized seats? I’m a us sized 22 husband is about 44 to 46 inch waist.
Hi! You should be ok in regular sized seats. I’m a us sized 26 (bottoms), and I managed fine.