It can be a little daunting to stay at a ryokan in Japan for the first time! Luckily, I stayed at the Taenoyu Ryokan in February 2020, and I can share what I learned of ryokan etiquette with you!
I was very nervous going to a ryokan for the first time in Akita, Japan, as I knew I’d have to get naked in front of other people, and that’s not something I’m particularly comfortable doing in my plus-size body.
But by the time I entered the baths, I was honestly over it. Everyone is so unbothered by being naked that very quickly, you also slip into the mentality of ‘this is totally normal‘. And as soon as you’re in that zone, the whole experience becomes incredible.
What is a Ryokan?
A ryokan is a traditional Japanese inn that offers a unique experience rooted in Japanese culture and hospitality. They tend to incorporate traditional elements like tatami mat flooring, sliding paper doors (fusuma), and minimalist design, and are a place where guests can relax away from the modern world.
Ryokans are known for their exceptional attention to detail, and for ensuring a comfortable and memorable stay for their guests. Many offer kaiseki cuisine, a multi-course traditional Japanese meal that showcases seasonal ingredients and meticulous presentation.
Similar to a ryokan, but not the same, is an onsen. An onsen is a hot spring, and while some ryokans have their own private onsen facilities, an onsen itself is not an inn but rather a natural hot spring bath.
Onsens are celebrated for their therapeutic properties, believed to promote relaxation and well-being due to the mineral-rich waters. These baths are a cultural tradition deeply ingrained in Japanese society, often visited for their perceived health benefits and calming effects.
Why stay in a Ryokan?
Alongside attending a tea ceremony, watching a sumo match, and attending a Kabuki play, staying in a ryokan is one of the most traditional and unique things you can do in Japan.
Depending on where you stay, an overnight booking can be quite expensive, but considering the delicious kaiseki dinner and breakfast included, the phenomenal service provided by the staff, and the option for access to relaxing hot baths, it’s worth spending that little bit more, at least for the one night.
Booking a Ryokan
Generally, one overnight stay in a ryokan is enough for a lovely and relaxing experience. But with tens of thousands of ryokans scattered across Japan, how do you know which one to choose?
Firstly, consider the location; there are a lot of ryokans in the areas around Tokyo and Kyoto, or concentrated in hot spring resort towns like Hakone, Beppu, Kinosaki and Noboribetsu. Do you want to be close to a city, or out in the countryside? What kind of scenery do you want to enjoy? How accessible is it by public transport? Do you want to be able to bathe in an onsen?
We personally stayed in Taenoyu ryokan, near Lake Tazawa, in the Nyuto mountains in the Akita region. Travelling down to Tokyo from Sapporo, Taenoyu was in a good position for our planned route. It was also February, and the snow was thick and still falling.
Floating in their hot springs while looking out over a snowy forest is a memory I’ll hold onto forever. But it was quite out of the way from the more touristy areas, and unless you’re heading to the area for skiing and other snow sports, you might find booking a ryokan close to the main cities more convenient.
Secondly, consider your budget; ryokans can charge anything from ¥5,000 (€31) to ¥200,000 (€1,268) per person per night, depending on their location, the season, and what services they provide.
A one night stay in Taenoyu, which includes access to hot spring baths, a snack upon arrival, dinner, and breakfast, a traditional room with a private toilet, and amenities such as yukata and toiletries, currently costs around ¥27,000 (€171) per person.
Some more things to consider when booking a ryokan include the style (would you prefer traditional, or something a bit more modern?), the amenities offered, whether the meals include vegetarian or vegan options, and whether the staff speak English or not.
Popular ryokans with hot springs suitable for foreign tourists:
- Shimizu Ryokan
- Address: 644 Kagiyacho, Shimogyo Ward, Kyoto, 600-8317, Japan
- ¥13,000 (€83) – ¥17,000 (€108) pp, pn
- Website: kyoto-shimizu.net
- Wakakusa no Yado Maruei
- Address: 498 Kodachi, Fujikawaguchiko, Minamitsuru District, Yamanashi 401-0302, Japan
- ¥16,000 (€101) – ¥52,000 (€330) pp, pn
- Website: maruei55.com
- Shima Onsen Kashiwaya
- Address: 3829 Shima, Nakanojo, Agatsuma District, Gunma 377-0601, Japan
- ¥20,000 (€127) – ¥34,000 (€216) pp, pn
- Website: kashiwaya.org
- Hakone Yuyado Zen
- Address: 1245-96 Sengokuhara, Hakone, Ashigarashimo District, Kanagawa 250-0631, Japan
- ¥32,000 (€202) – ¥54,000 (€342) pp, pn
- Website: hakone-zen.com
- Hoshinoya Kyoto
- Address: 11-2 Arashiyama Genrokuzancho, Nishikyo-ku, Kyoto 616-0007
- ¥70,000 (€444) – ¥106,000 (€672) pp, pn
- Website: hoshinoya.com/kyoto/en
- Gora Kadan
- Address: 1300 Gora, Hakone, Ashigarashimo District, Kanagawa 250-0408, Japan
- ¥80,000 (€507) – ¥188,000 (€1,191) pp, pn
- Website: gorakadan.com
Staying in a Ryokan
When you arrive at a Ryokan, the first thing you’ll need to do is remove your shoes. They’ll be left in the ‘genkan’, which is a small entryway designed specifically to leave your shoes in. Change into the provided slippers, and collect your shoes on the way out when you leave.
Not only is it customary to remove your shoes upon entering a Japanese house, but for a ryokan, it’s essential; their rooms are typically laid out with tatami mats, which is a traditional type of flooring made from straw. They can be damaged by wearing your shoes on them, hence why you must remove them before entering.
Some rooms might feature a Kotatsu, which is a low, heated table with a blanket draped over it. Typically, you’ll be greeted with some green tea and small snacks left on the table, and you can slide under the blanket to keep warm while eating and drinking.
Every evening, the staff will enter your room to prepare your futon. This is traditional Japanese bedding used in ryokans, and typically consists of a thin mattress, duvet, and pillow. They’re stored in cupboards during the day, and rolled out when you’re ready to sleep.
Entering the baths
You’ll likely be provided with a yukata when you stay, which is a cotton kimono meant for being worn around the ryokan, and down to the baths. Make sure to wear it with the left side over the right – the opposite is meant for the deceased!
You may struggle to close a yukata over yourself if you’re plus-sized, so if you’re worried, either bring your own, or if you’re at a private ryokan, you’ll probably get away with wearing something underneath – I personally wore black jogging trousers and tank top to and from the baths underneath my yukata, and the staff were understanding.
Before entering the baths, make note of the curtains – there will be a womens and a mens bath, and you need to make sure you enter the right one! The womens bath will be marked with a red curtain, and the mens with a blue. If you learn any kanji before you go, make sure it’s a least the symbols for men and ladies! They’ll often swap the curtains overnight to ensure everyone gets to experience both sets of baths.
In the dressing room there will be some sort of storage space provided for each guest, normally in the form of a locker or basket. There will also (most of the time) be toiletries, grooming materials like disposable combs and earbuds, and hairdryers provided.
Before you get in the water, you must wash your body in the provided showers and thoroughly clean off any soap. There will be small stools to sit on, and shampoo provided. You can take a small towel into the baths with you to wash with, dry off, or even hide your bits if you’re shy. Leave the big towel in the dressing room ready for drying off with when you’ve finished your soak.
Mealtimes
Many ryokans offer Kaiseki for dinner, a multi-course traditional Japanese meal. Some will serve it to you in your room, others will set it up in a dining room. The menu often varies, and includes seasonal and locally sourced dishes.
Expect portions of fish and shellfish, udon and soba noodles, soup, pickled and fresh vegetables, fresh rice, and pork or beef.
Breakfast will also be provided in the same fashion, and can include natto, eggs, fish, rice, and other light dishes.
Some things to remember when staying in a ryokan
- The walls are often thin, so try to be considerate of other guests and keep the noise to a minimum.
- Tattoos are often not allowed, due to their continued association with the Yakuza, so make sure to enquire before you go if you’ll be allowed in with a tattoo.
- If you haven’t paid before arriving, make sure you have enough cash to cover your bill before you leave, as some ryokans don’t accept card payments.
- Some ryokans are family-friendly, while some don’t accept children, so make sure to check before you book if you’ll be able to enter the ryokan with kids.
And lastly, not all ryokans will have English-speaking staff, so try to learn a few basic phrases before you go:
- “Ohayo” (Oh-hi-yo) – Good morning
- “Konnichiwa” (Kon-nee-chee-wah) – Hello/Good Afternoon
- “Konbanwa” (Kon-ban-wah) – Good evening
- “Oyasuminasai” (Oh-yah-su-min-ah-sigh) – Good night
- “Sayonara” (Sigh-on-arr-rah) – Goodbye
- “Arigato gozaimasu” (Ah-ree-gah-toe go-zai-mass) – Thank you very much (formal)
- “Arigato” (Ah-ree-gah-toe) – Thank you (casual)
- “Sumimasen” (Su-mee-mah-sen) – Excuse me
- “Gomen nasai” (Go-men-nah-sigh) – I’m sorry (formal)
- “Gomen” (Go-men) – Sorry (casual)
- “Onegai Shimasu” (On-nuh-guy she-mass) – Please (formal)
- “Onegai” (On-nuh-guy) – Please (casual)
- “Hai” (Hi) – Yes
- “Iie” (Ee-ay) – No
- “Wakarimasu” (Wah-car-ee-mass) – I understand
- “Wakarimasen” (Wah-car-ee-mass-en) – I don’t understand
- “Daijoubu desu” (Die-joe-boo-dess) – I’m/It’s ok
- “… o kudasai” (oh koo-dah-sigh) – I’d like …
- “… wa doko desu ka” (wah doh-koh dess kah) – Where is …?
- “Itadakimasu” (Ee-ta-da-kee-mass) – say before you eat to express gratitude for the meal
- “Gochisousama deshita” (Go-chee-so-sah-mah-desh-ta) – That was a delicious meal (said after you finish eating)
- Basic numbers –
- Ichi (itchy) – One
- Ni (knee) – Two
- San (San) – Three
- Yon (Yon) or Shi (She) – Four
- Go (Go) – Five
- Roku (Roh-koo) – Six
- Shichi (Shee-chee) or Nana (Nana) – Seven
- Hachi (Hatch-ee) – Eight
- Kyuu (Kyoo) – Nine
- Juu (Joo) – Ten
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